WOOL PROCESSING

Knitting. All techniques.

We all have a grandma or a friend that loves knitting: just two needles, a ball of yarn, some technique and imagination, and you can accomplish anything. A way of working that is time-consuming and is not suitable for larger production. This is why it has evolved into machines more and more complex and precise, able to offer different kinds of processing and manufacturing, depending on the results to be obtained. Of course, it is always the man who programs the work to make the difference in the outcome.

ferri“DECREASING” NEEDLE-KIT

The needles knit sweater is available to everybody, as only the yarn and two-four needles are required. And much manual skills. The wool has to be worked by hand and needles, exactly as grandmother and the lovers uses to do. Knitting, the yarn ball becomes smaller and the sweater grows up. To realize a garment, you have to follow a model where indicated when to decrease the knits (if the sweater has to become tight) and when to increase them to enlarge, never cutting the yarn. In this way, if desired, at any point of the work you can untie everything, create a new ball, and start again. A knit sweater manufactured in this way is called “decreased”, as the “decreasing” is the act of reducing the number of knits never cutting the yarn. It is long job: to realize a knitted sweater it takes days.

macchina“DECREASING” MACHINE-KIT

Once prepared the model, chosen the yarn, studied the measures, the garment can be realized by machine. The machine can be manual, if the operator maneuver the cart with his arms, or automatic if the machine can do by itself and the operator just sets the model to be implemented and supervises the work of the machine. The basic process is similar to the needles one: the single parts of the garment (front, back, sleeves, etc, …) are manufactured individually, then they are sewed together, if necessary they are washed and finished, then ironed and packed. An important part is the selection of the washing procedure and the treatment of particular yarns, the mending up, the material composition, the ironing and the packaging.
Also in this case the knitted garment is realized with the “decreasing” technique, as the yarn is almost never cut and it can be untied simply pulling the right thread. A knitting machine simplifies the work, makes it faster but could never replace man’s hands and head.

tagliata“CUT” KNIT GARMENT

The alternative to a “decreasing” knit is a “cut” knit. It is more similar to the tailored fabric: you work a big tailored fabric and you shape it by cutting. The pieces obtained are then assembled in the garment. The finished product cannot be untied because the yarn is cut during the manufacturing. It is a type of processing less valuable and it does not requires expert knitters but only a seamstress.

integrale“SINGLE PIECE” KNIT GARMENT

The latest technology applied in knitwear artisan industry: knitting machines with an internal computer that can follow the command proposed by a technician and automatically execute all the manual man’s work. The man can specialize on all the control, supervision and programming actions. The obtained knit is called “integral” or “single piece” because it is manufactured in a single piece. There are no seams but only some eventual applications as borders, neck, etc. that are sewed manually in a second step.